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Henrique Sá Pessoa

"My obsession is doing projects that excite me, make me grow and make me happy” 

The year has started in a big way for Henrique Sá Pessoa, Chef of the Year for Boa Cama Boa Mesa in 2022. The opening of the restaurant JOIA, in London, is freshly sparkling. Internationalisation is in his DNA. Outdoing himself, every day, is a goal. For its part, his cuisine has evolved, but it hasn’t lost its soul. Nor its heart. Essential elements, he says, to get where he is now. In this Kitchens’ Chef  Special, he spoke to TRENDS, among other topics, about ambitions, technology and design. He is a fan of everything that is new ‘gadgets’ that can make life easier and everything much more beautiful. 

Two Michelin Stars. Did you ever dream that such a thing could happen? 
I think that any chef, from the moment he enters the world of fine dining, I wouldn’t say ‘dreams about a Michelin Star’exactly, but at least aspires to reach that level. Because it’s difficult to dream about something that, in a way, doesn’t depend only on us. So, I’ve never been a chef who wakes up in the morning and my life and my dream is to win a Michelin Star, nor will I ever be. Of course, from the moment that we have one of these distinctions, or two, the third obviously becomes an ambition, because if it wasn’t, I would be stagnating. And I still have a few years to go, objectives and goals to achieve. Certainly, a third star is one of them, but that’s not what gets me out of bed every day. My obsession is doing projects that excite me, make me grow and make me happy.

Throughout your life, who has been the person you’ve most wanted to make proud?
We are motivated by the people that surround us. Family, partners, including ex-relationships. It is the people who are by our side that end up motivating us on a daily basis. Above all else, we want those people to believe in us. In my case, that might be my daughter, my parents, my girlfriend or my partner. Of course, then you want the general public to like it/you. Everyone likes to be recognised, to be cherished...  

And what’s next on your wish list?
About five years ago, I started a period of international expansion. I’ve always considered myself a person of the world. I left Portugal at 17 and a large part of my life has been spent travelling, both professionally and for pleasure. I’ve always felt that Portugal was too small for me. I mean my working radius. And so, in 2017, I opened my first international space, in Macao. In 2021, I opened in Amsterdam. And more, recently, I opened in London. This need, to have projects abroad has a lot to do with my personal satisfaction and also wanting to leave a mark. I hit 25 years in my career last year and I ask myself: how do I want to be remembered? Do I want to be remembered as a chef who marked Portuguese gastronomy in Portugal? Or as a chef who marked Portuguese gastronomy in Portugal and abroad?

"This need, to have projects abroad has a lot to do with my personal satisfaction”
And in the kitchen, what household appliances can’t you go without?
In a professional kitchen, you can’t do without a good oven, like the ones we have nowadays, which can cook with steam, at low temperatures, or do a thousand and one things. And you can’t go without a good hob. Nowadays, you can design made-to-measure hobs, with specific integrated equipment.

Utensils a chef just couldn’t live without?
A good knife, a good chopping board and a good frying pan.

In terms of materials, how would you describe the ideal kitchen?
I like a mix. I like a kitchen that people look at and almost identify as the kitchen of a dream house. I think the architecture is very important, as well as the aesthetic sense. Lighting is one of the things I value the most, very theatrical lighting. The areas where you work should be very well lit, but then the rest darkened, because it gives a more laboratory atmosphere, while at the same time being inspirational, as if it were a dream. In the Atelier, I have had several partners; at home, recently, I put in some Laminam countertops, which are antibacterial. I can place hot pots on top of them and they don’t burn. I can squeeze a lemon juice or cut a pineapple and no stains will remain on the countertops... These are materials that didn’t exist a few years ago and that not only make our lives easier, but also give us an aesthetic side. I’ve always been a fan of integrating this type of material in my kitchens.  

"The lighting is one of the things I value most, very theatrical lighting” 

For you, cooking is a unique act. Do you take this act very seriously?
Quite the contrary; you shouldn’t take everything too seriously. Above all, an act of cooking has to be an act of passion. Everything has to have passion, commitment and dedication – whether this is cooking for my daughter or in the restaurant. Of course, when I cook in the restaurant, I see the work in a different way, much more mechanised, more repetitive, much more technical, much less emotional, because every day we are replicating the same recipes so that they are the same for every customer that visits us. Then we have the emotional side, when we create the recipe. The creative process has a much more emotional side, much freer and much more aspirational. I take pleasure in both sides, because it’s also very challenging to serve up, every day, about 300 dishes between 7.00 pm and 10.30 pm, in a way in all come out with the right timings. So, during service I feel much more like a maestro, and during the creative process I feel much more like a craftsman.
Soul or heart?
Good question. I think you can’t have soul without heart. It’s hard to get something to have soul if the heart is not present.  

Rice or potato?
I love rice and I love potato. I can’t decide. Maybe rice and potato.  

Clay casserole or stainless steel pot?
For functional reasons, stainless steel pot.   

Kidney beans or black-eye peas?
 Kidney beans.  

White pepper or black pepper?
Depends on the dish. If it’s meat, black pepper. If fish, white pepper.  

Lunch or dinner? 
To make lengthy menus, I prefer lunch. To drink a good wine, I prefer dinner. 

Codfish fritter or rissoles?
Difficult. If the rissoles are nice and warm, rissoles. If the cod fritters are cod and not potato, then fritters.  
Filomena Abreu
T. Filomena Abreu
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